This is a site of Roman town called Italica, and it's where Trajan was born. I actually arrived there while it was still dark so I could get shots of the sun rising over the ruins. Unfortunately sites like this never seem to have hours that correspond with the beautiful morning light, so I arrived intending to jump whatever fence was there preventing me from getting my shots. There aren't many fences that can keep me out, but I figure the height of the fence is probably an approximate measure of the level of irritation a guard would have upon discovery of an impostor running around in there before hours. This particular fence was very forbidding, and I became unwilling to risk getting caught. Slipping the guard a €20 note didn't help; he just shook his head sadly and pointed at himself while drawing his finger across his throat, indicating that he would be in big trouble if he allowed me in. So I had to wait around for two and a half hours, which was really unfortunate, because earlier that morning the light had been breathtakingly beautiful. I know this because I watched mournfully from outside the fence until they finally opened the gate at 10am, but by that point the golden hour was over.